Pyrenees: Ceret

This is a description of 4 days (3 nights) circular trek in the Canigou, including climb to the summit which I did on June 2018.

There are few more options to walk on the Canigou. You can click HERE to view other options. The lodging is in manned refuges which are simple hostels (dormitories) high up in the mountain. In those refuges you also get all the meals you need (breakfast, picnic bag for lunch and dinner). The refuges and their food solution mean that you don't need to carry heavy sleeping-bag, tent and food on your back. All in all it cost about 50 € per day per person (lodging and 3 meals)

More explanation on the refuges HERE.

General Description of hiking in the Canigou HERE

 

 

Day 1: Vernet-les-Bains to Refuge de Cortalets

Start point: Village Vernet-les-Bains (HERE). You arrive either by car or with the 1 € bus from Perpignan. You start here and finish here so if you arrive with a car find a safe parking place for the next 4 days.

First night sleep is in the refuge de Cortalets (HERE). From Vernet-les-Bains to Refuge de Cortalets its more than 1500 meter climb (depends on where in the village, you parked your car), (the optionto go up from Vernes to Cortalets with a 4x4 taxi service - is no longer valid). If you choose to climb on foot from Vernet-les-Bains – it might take more than 6 hours to reach the refuge. If you want to climb to the summit - so you will make the summit only on the next day.

 

The climb to the summit: From the refuges de Cortalets you take a clear and well marked trail. You see the area of the summit from the refuge itself (not the top though) so probably not many options to get lost on the way up. You can always consult with the stuff in the refuge. The 634 meters climb takes about 2 hours. Going back takes less time if you go down on the same trail. So all in all it might take about 5 hours for a return trip from the refuge. You can view a web cam HERE

But there is another option to go down which takes much longer and is much more chalenging. It is called “the chimney” - and it means that from the summit there is a dramatic narrow rock drop (like a chimney) that you need almost to crawl so you will not fell down, and eventually you are connected to different trail – than the one you climbed up. Consult with the stuff of the refuge on how to do it since I didn't do it.

 

The close vicinity of the refuge is very nice as well. It is mostly forested area with few streams and 3 little naturals pools (might be dry or with little water after the summer). Many French are arriving just for camping with tents (no cars allowed in that area).

 

Technicalities:

Day 1 lodging: refuge de Cortalets

Distance to climb up to the peak from the refuge and back: 7.5 km

Uphill: 615 m

Downhill: 615 m

Download GPS file: HERE

View map HERE

 

Notice: The summit might be covered with clouds. Most likely clouds would arrive on the afternoons. Also be ready with rain gear but also with something to protect you from the scorching sun in a sunny day. Weather in the mountain tend to change very very quickly.

Snow – consult with the stuff regarding the level of snow on the way up and if necessary to have special shoes (starting late May or June most probably you will not need but there are exceptional years)

 

Day 2: Refuge de Cortalets to Refuge de Mariailles

This is the best day of this trek. If you already did the summit the day before, you start in the morning heading to “Crete de Barbet”. This is amazing climb along a ridge with beautiful views , and you reach a pass, right in front of the Canigou summit. This climb can take about 2 hours, but the rest of that day is a long long descent which most of it is not too steep. When you continue down after the pass you reach an intersection with a trail which arrives from the “chimney” of the Canigou. If you didn't do the summit the day before, you probably will do it that second day, but instead of going back to refuge de Cortalets you probably will want to continue and descend from the chimney. I didn't do it and I cannot suggest on the difficulty to go down from the chimney. Anyway – that day is either walk via the “Crete de Barbet” as I described or via the summit and chimney. You cannot do both in the same day unless you are extremely fit and athletic.

Continuing from the pass of the “Crete de Barbet” you reach a very nice valley surrounded by high peaks (probably what they call “cirque de glaciers”). In May – June you will probably cross few snow areas, and you will see special deer running on the snow on the faraway snowy slopes. The whole area is covered with little streams arriving from the melting snow on the peaks. The valley called “Cady” (height of about 2300 meter) is a good place to stop for a picnic lunch, taken from the basket that the refuge de Cortalets gave you in the morning.

From there the Alpine like landscape changes to green forest. You just need to follow the signs , and you walk down till you reach the refuge de Mariailles. There is one place you need to cross a river. On dry season you just jump over the rocks to reach the other side, but after a rainy season you will need to take of your shoes and walk in the stream.

Its a long day – if you start by 8 AM you will probably arrive to the refuge some time in the afternoon (unless you run the trail).

 

Technicalities:

Day 2 lodging: refuge de Mariailles

Distance to walk: 13 km

Uphill: 603 m

Downhill: 996 m

Download GPS file: HERE

View map HERE

 

 

Day 3: Refuge de Mariailles to Py

This is a short and easy day which you mostly descend. The walk is along the famous GR-10 trail. The first part is a walk in a forest along a water canal and the second is more open to the wonderful views of the surrounding mountains. The village Py is very small and there is only one real guest house. We stayed at Auberge de Py which the rooms are very small but at least not dormitories like in the refuges. They own a little restaurant on a terrace in front of the hotel. We found that the food was good and the stuff were very friendly. Not much to do in the little village but to rest. Most hikers that walk the GR-10 tend to continue furthermore 10 km uphill to the village of Mantet, so if you are not satisfied with only 10 km walk and you can continue up to Mantet and sleep there. I haven't been there so I cannot recommend. In addition you can further continue few more days (or months) along the GR-10. Next day we returned to pick up our car from Vernet-les-Bains

 

Technicalities:

Day 3 lodging: Py - Auberge de Py

Distance to walk: 8 km

Downhill: 700 m

Download GPS file: HERE

View map HERE

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Day 4: Py to Vernet les Bains

We return to Vernet-les-Bains to pick up the car. Its also an easy day of walking. First part is walking to the next village “Sahorre” along the paved road (very little traffic) which run along the river. Its a beautiful road in a deep gorge. From Sahorre there is a trail going up the mountain till Vernet-les-Bains. That trail named in the map “Ronde du Canigou” is starting immediately after you start to walk up the road to vernet-les-Bains which you follow the signs in the center of the village (we didn't make that trail up since we had a lift to Vernet).

You will probably reach Vernet-les-Bains by noon time, and you might want to head to the “center-ville” (city center), there, you can find few restaurants, coffee houses and boulangeries.

Remark: from Py to Sahorre there is also a bus which run once during morning hours, so if you want to shorten this short day you can take that bus. Ask the stuff in the Auberge for details.

 

Technicalities:

Distance to walk: 10.5 km

Uphill: 120 m

Download GPS file: HERE

View map HERE